DUSHANBE — The “Afghan” arrived in Dushanbe in the midst of lunchtime today. This strong southerly wind, called Afghanka here, has been blowing ever since — bringing with it what must surely be a substantial portion of Afghanistan. By 4:30 PM, when I was walking home, quite a bit earlier than usual, from work visibility was down to under 200 meters.
I had seen the haze out the window of my 5th floor office, but it was bright white and I assumed it was an unusual fog. As soon as I stepped outside, however, I realized my mistake. The marble entry way and steps leading up to our building was slick with a fine dusty sand carried in on the wind, making walking treacherous. My one kilometre walk home was interesting. The dust is so fine that it is not immediately troublesome.
After a few minutes, though, my eyes were stinging and, mouth firmly closed, I could feel my nostrils drying out. The smell of burning fall leaves which had filled the city with a thick grey smoke for the past week was gone. The smell of dust, the smell I recognized from my time in Afghanistan, was everywhere. Soon after, a slightly larger than average particle must have lodged itself in my right eye, which spontaneously closed in a futile attempt to blink itself clear. No such luck. Big enough to irritate, too small to dislodge easily. And with eyes that were rapidly drying, not enough tears to float it free. Fortunately, I was able to make it to my apartment without my left eye incurring the same fate.
The wind is a normal feature of a southern Tajik fall. Soon, apparently, will come the first rains which will wash the Afghan away. Soon after the first rains, will come the second, the third and then the desire for the rains to go away and the dryness to return. The question for me is, will I still be here then?
I plan to return to Canada for a month-long break at the beginning of December, likely to return for the peak of winter in early January.